Marseille, France

 Marseille

You can watch a video about our time in Marseille at this link:

Marseille, France

We went on a Mediterranean Cruise, and one of our destinations was Marseille, France.  This is what we saw while we were in Marseille:

• Monument aux morts de l’Armée d’Orient
• Notre-Dame de la Garde 
• Abbey of Saint Victor
• Four des Navettes
• Palais Longchamp
• Vieux Port

Some of our cruise ports I chose to plan our activities and walk everywhere, but in the case of Marseille I chose to purchase an excursion and have a guided tour of Marseille.  I was very glad that we had a tour guide to drive us around to each destination, because it rained the entire day.  Also, our tour guide shared some very valuable information about Marseille and each of the places we visited.  Additionally, the sites that we visited were pretty far apart from each other, and from the cruise ship dock. Our tour guide's name was Joe.  Here is a listing for the tour we selected:

Highlights of Marseille Half-day Tour

Chateau d'If

Chateau d'If was what I wanted to see the very most in Marseille.  Our tour was scheduled to end at 1 p.m., and my plan was to take a taxi to Vieux Port where we would catch a boat to the island of If.  Unfortunately, because the weather was bad, the water was too choppy for boats to travel to Chateau d'If, so we weren't able to visit.  The reason I wanted to see Chateau d'If so badly is because I love the book & movie "The Count of Monte Cristo," which took place at Chateau d'If.  I should say, the story took place there, but the actual filming of the movie did not take place on the island of If.  Still, I wanted to see the real Chateau d'If, and someday I will - on another visit to Marseille.  If you want to learn more about Chateau d'If, visit their official website here:

Chateau d'If

Chateau d'If opens at 10 in the morning and closes at 6 during the summer months, and 5:15 during the winter months.  It is closed on Mondays, May 1st, December 25th, and January 1st.  It costs 7 euro.

You can catch a boat ride to the island of If here:

Lebateau Boat

If you plan to visit Chateau d'If and you are coming to Marseille on a cruise, keep in mind that the cruise ship port is not close to Vieux Port, where you will catch a boat to the island.  In other words, don't plan to walk there, unless you want to waste valuable sight-seeing time walking an hour and a half from one port to the other.  There is a free shuttle that runs from the cruise ship dock to city center, but I have read that the wait is sometimes long, and the times are sometimes uncertain.  You can purchase shuttle rides from the cruise ship dock to city center and back, but you have to purchase the round trip at the cruise ship dock as they don't sell them at city center.  If you're planning to go from the cruise ship dock to Vieux Port, a taxi or uber is definitely your best bet!

This is as close as we got to Chateau d'If

Chateau D'If on the island of If

Monument aux morts de l'Armee d'Orient

Our tour guide picked us up at the cruise ship port and our first destination was the Monument to the dead of the Army of the Orient.  This monument is at the edge of the sea and affords a very nice view of Chauteau d'If.  It was built in 1924 as part of a competition to honor soldiers and sailors who had died in other lands.  It was designed by Bouches-du-Rhone Gaston Castel.  It is supposed to represent a portico in the sky.  The female sculptures symbolize heroism.

Monument aux morts de l'Armee d'Orient

Portico in the Sky

You can read more about the monument here:

Monument aux morts de l'Armee d'Orient

Church of Notre-Dame de la Garde

Next our tour guide drove us up the hill to the church which can be seen from all over Marseille - the basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde.  She is nicknamed by the people of Marseille, "The Good Mother."  There are spectacular view of the city from this church, which is striking with its black and white stripes.

The church was built beginning in 1853 and completed in 1864.  It was designed by Henri-Jacques Esperandieu at the young age of 23.  The church has three bells in its bell tower, including the bell which is nicknamed "Marie-Josephine" and weighs more than 8 tons.  The statue of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus on top of the church, faces the sea as if welcoming guests as they arrive in Marseille.  Jesus appears to be waving to them.  This statue is mostly hollow inside, except for a staircase that visitors used to be able to climb to look out at the city through the Virgin's eyes.  Unfortunately that staircase is now closed to the public.

The church is open 7 days a week beginning at 7 a.m. and closing at 6 p.m.  It is free to enter.  Unfortunately, it was a Sunday when we arrived in Marseille, and mass was just starting as we arrived at the church.  They did not permit us to enter for mass, so we were not able to see the basilica or the crypt.  They close the church for mass and special celebrations.  We were able to walk around outside and then we visited the roof with the use of the elevator.  The views are even more stunning from the roof!

We also saw a monument outside the basilica, which is dedicated to sailors and migrants who were lost at sea.  In September 2023, Pope Francis visited Notre-Dame de la Garde and presided over a silent moment of prayer at the basilica, and a moment of remembrance at the memorial.

Notre-Dame de la Garde

statue of Christ at the basilica

The Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus on top of the church

Beautiful view of Marseille from the roof of the basilica

Memorial to migrants and sailors lost at sea

Pope Francis conducted a moment of remembrance at this monument in September 2023

view of Chateau d'If from the basilica

You can read more about Notre-Dame de la Garde here:

Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde

Abbey of Saint Victor

Our tour guide drove us to the Saint Victor Abbey next.  It was founded in the fifth century.  When we arrived at this church, mass was already underway.  They did let us enter, but we couldn't walk around and admire the church or visit the crypts, which I've heard are stunning.  We did visit the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which contains a 5th century stone altar and also a portrait that is the monochrome face of Christ.  You can admire the view of Vieux Port from outside the basilica.  The basilica is free to enter, but the crypt costs 2 euro.

Abbey of Saint Victor

Abbey of Saint Victor on a busy street

Chapel of the Holy Sacrament with a 5th century altar

You can read more about the Abbey of Saint Victor here:

Abbey of Saint Victor

Four des Navettes

Right next to the abbey is the Four des Navettes, which is the oldest bakery in Marseille.  It has been operating, and family owned, since 1781.  It is most famous for its shuttles (navettes), which we were given a sample of.  They are dry biscuits that are shaped like small boats.  We also purchased some cookies while we were there.  We watched them baking some of their variety of baked goods that are for sale in their bakery.

Four des Navettes

one of their famous shuttles (navettes)

Four des Navettes official website

Palais Longchamp

Our next stop was at the Palais Longchamp monument, which was created in 1839 to celebrate the construction of the Canal of Marseille, which brought water from the river Durance to Marseille.  Our tour guide told us that before the arrival of water in Marseille, many people suffered and died from epidemics.  The water that this monument celebrates was truly life saving to the people of Marseille.

The building took 30 years to complete.  It was designed by architect Henri-Jacques Esperandieu, the same architect that designed the Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica.  It opened in 1869.  It used to contain a zoo on the grounds of Parc Longchamp, but the zoo was closed in 1987.  There are still cages and pavilions from the zoo on the grounds, including a children's theater that is housed in what used to be the giraffe cage.  We walked beside the fountain and admired the sculptures.  The fountain, Chauteau d'Eau, runs on completely recycled water.  There are two museums on either side of the fountain -- the Natural History Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts.  Both museums are free to enter.  Palais Longchamp is a definite Must-See while in Marseille!

Chateau d'Eau

stone staircase leading up to the museums

view of the city from above the fountain

You can read more about Palais Longchamp here:

Palais Longchamp

Our tour guide dropped us off near Vieux Port to do some shopping, and we discovered a very good crepe place called O Bar au Crepes.  The crepes were just 4 euro each and you could choose from a wide range of fillings.  This was a great way to end our tour.  Our tour guide drove us back to the cruise ship by about 1 o’clock in the afternoon.  We enjoyed our time in Marseille.  If I could have only visited Chateau d’If, I would have considered my day to be perfect.  That will have to wait till next time!  Despite the rain, Marseille was a beautiful city to visit.