Palermo

Watch a video of our time in Palermo here:

Palermo, Sicily

In 2024 we went on a Mediterranean Cruise, and Palermo was one of the cities that we visited.  I love Palermo, its excellent food, rich history, and beautiful art and buildings.  This was not my first visit to Palermo, so rather than pay for an excursion, I planned our day and we explored Palermo on foot.  These are the destinations we visited:

• Teatro Massimo
• Palermo Cathedral
• Palazzo Reale & Palatine Chapel
• Quattro Canti
• Fontana Pretoria
• Chiesa di Santa Caterina
• Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini

First of all, be prepared to be bombarded with about fifty locals offering tours, maps, taxi rides, and other information from the moment you exit the cruise ship until you're well into the busy pedestrian streets of Palermo.  A taxi is not necessary to see any of these tourist sites in Palermo:

Teatro Massimo

It is only a twenty minute walk from the cruise ship port to Teatro Massimo, which first opened in 1897.  It is the largest opera house in Italy, and the third largest in Europe.  Its stage is one of the largest stages in the entire world.  It seats 1,350 guests.  It was designed by Giovan Battista Filippo Basile.  Its acoustics allow performers to be heard from every seat in the house.  The theater was constructed on the site of an ancient Roman theater dating back to the 2nd century B.C. and remains from that theater can still be seen in the basement of the opera house.  There are hidden passageways and tunnels beneath it that performers and staff used to use to move discreetly during performances, although we didn't get to visit these tunnels.  

The final and probably most famous scene of Godfather III was filmed at Teatro Massimo in 1990.  Don Altobello dies from poisoning in an opera box during Anthony Corleone’s performance in the opera CavallerEa Rusticana, and Michael Corleone’s daughter Mary is shot outside on the front steps of the Teatro Massimo.  

Godfather scene inside Teatro Massimo

Godfather scene outside Teatro Massimo

Also, according to legend, the ghost of a nun haunts the theater.  In order to construct the theater, some pre-existing structures had to be demolished, including the Church of San Francesco delle Stimate, its monastery and annexed cemetery.  During these demolitions, according to legend, the tomb of a nun who died in 1800 was desecrated.  It is said that this nun haunts the theater to this day, that people have seen her shadow backstage and in the basement, and that she has a habit of causing people to stumble on a particular set of stairs, which are now known as the “nun’s step.”  Our tour guide joked that this nun is their very own Phantom of the Opera.  But apparently this Ghost of a Nun isn’t scaring spectators away, Teatro Massimo hosts more than 130 music, opera, and dance events every year.  

In a lobby outside the main auditorium there is a circle in the middle of the floor that you can stand on and speak.  It will sound as if your voice is being projected through a microphone, but you are the only one in the room who can hear it.  I didn’t believe it until I tried it myself.  That was probably the highlight of the visit for me.  

To visit the theater you have to go on a guided tour.  It is open every day from 9:30 in the morning until their last tour begins at 4:50 p.m.  Tickets are twelve euro.  This is a definite MUST-SEE while in Palermo.  Here is the website where you can find more information and purchase tickets, although buying tickets ahead of time should not be necessary.

Teatro Massimo

Teatro Massimo

The Royal Box

view from inside the Royal Box

view from inside the Royal Box

private lobby outside the Royal Box

circle of amplification in the lobby outside the auditorium

the roof above the circle

The front steps of Teatro Massimo

Cathedral of Palermo

A 12 minute walk takes you from Teatro Massimo to the Palermo Cathedral.  Entrance to this beautiful cathedral is free.  However, if you want to go up on the roof, and into the crypt, treasury, and royal tombs, you have to purchase a ticket for 7 euro.  This is definitely worth it!  The view from the roof is spectacular!  The Cathedral was built in 1184 by the Normans as a re-converted Christian Church on the site of a Muslim Mosque that was formerly a Christian church.  It was built by Walter Ophamil.  His tomb is in the crypt.  It is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 5:30 p.m.  Sunday has restricted hours and visiting opportunities.

I am afraid of heights, but the hike up the 100 stairs to the catwalk on the roof of the Palermo Cathedral was worth the view from the top.  There are handrails on the catwalk and it is perfectly safe.  One set of stairs leads you to a rooftop terrace view, and then a second set of stairs takes you to the catwalk on top.  The spiral staircases are tight, so if you’re claustrophobic you might want to think about it before taking the trip up these winding enclosed and very steep steps.  But once you’re at the top all thoughts of claustrophobia will diminish as you’re out in the open air and viewing a panorama of Palermo.  

Visit this website for more information:

Palermo Cathedral

Palazzo Reale

Only a 7 minute walk takes you from the Palermo Cathedral to the Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel. The Royal Palace, or the Norman Palace of Palermo, the Palazzo Reale, or Palazzo dei Normanni, was built in 1130.   The Palatine Chapel was my very favorite experience in Palermo.  It is made of mosaics and beautifully carved wood and is absolutely gorgeous.  The detail is incredible.  The chapel was built by Roger the Second, king of Sicily in 1140.  The cost to enter the Monumental Complex, which includes the Palatine Chapel, the Royal Apartments, the Royal Gardens, and archaeological area and exhibitions is nineteen euro.  It is open Monday through Saturday from 8:30 am to 4:30 p.m. and on Sundays from 8:30 am to 12:30 p.m.  It’s closed on Christmas and New Years.  

For more information visit their website:

Palazzo Normanni

Palazzo Reale

Monument to Phillip the V of Spain in Villa Bonanno outside the Palazzo Reale

On display in the center of the Maqueda Courtyard in the Royal Palace while we were visiting was a very large white marble baby.  This baby was on display until June 3rd 2024.  The exhibit was called “Look Down.”  The baby is curled up in a fetal position and is facing the Palatine Chapel, a symbol of coexistence between different cultures and religions.  It was created by Jago, an Italian sculptor who is considered to be one of the greatest artists in Italy and in the world.  The marble baby was originally displayed in Naples, then Rujairah, then in front of the colosseum in Rome, and then on display in Sicily.  

Beautiful detail in the Palatine Chapel

Beautiful mosaics in the Palatine Chapel

carved wooden ceilings

During our tour of the palace, parliament was in session so we were not able to tour the royal apartments.  The royal palace is the seat of the Sicilian parliament.  Every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday the royal apartments are closed to visitors.  

While visiting the monumental complex, don’t miss out on the royal gardens.  Monuments of nature are on display here, including the gigantic Ficus macrophylla which embraces a pine tree and lives in the company of very rare plants and trees.  The royal gardens had been closed to the public for years, but are now part of the tour of the monumental complex.  

a pine tree being embraced by a Ficus Macrophylla in the Royal Gardens

In the basement of the royal complex are remains from 4th century BC Phoenician city Ziz, or Panormos.  You can see this excavation as part of your tour.  Phoenician walls and a gate have been excavated, as well as other archaeological finds that you’ll see on your tour there.  

Quattro Canti

It’s a 12 minute walk from the Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel to Fontana Pretoria, or the Fountain of Shame.  This is about a block from the famous Quattro Canti intersection, which is where two major Palermo streets, Via Maqueda, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele intersect.  The four facades are called Albergheria, Seralcadio/Capo, La Loggia, and Kalsa.

Albergheria represents Spring and honors Spanish King Charles V (southwest corner).  Seralcadio/Capo represents the season summer and honors Spanish King Phillip II (northwest corner).  La Loggia represents autumn and honors King Phillips III (northeast corner).  And Kalsa represents winter and honors Phillips IV, king of Spain (southeast corner).  

Charles V Monument

La Loggia

Albergheria

Seralcadio/Capo

Kalsa

Fontana Pretoria

Behind the southeast corner building, along Via Maqueda, is Piazza Pretoria with the famous Fontana Pretoria.  The fountain was installed in Piazza Pretoria in 1581 and includes 48 statues of nymphs, humans, mermaids, sirons, tritons, and satyrs.  The fountain represents the twelve Olympians, other mythological figures, and animals, and the rivers of Palermo.  

Since the 18th century some people nicknamed Fontana Pretoria the Fountain of Shame because of all of the nude figures, and it was even rumored that the fountain’s waters were infected with syphilis.  Unfortunately, on our most recent visit to the fountain there was no water in it at all, and the gates were locked so we couldn’t explore inside the fountain but had to admire it from outside the fence. On our previous visit the waters were flowing and the gates were opened, so we suspect that the fountain must be under renovations.  

The fountain was designed by Francesco Camilliani and was originally intended for the Palace of San Clemente in Florence.  When it was moved to Fontana Pretoria, several homes in the area had to be demolished to make room for it.  

Fontana Pretoria is considered one of the most iconic landmarks of Palermo.  We sat on the steps in Piazza Pretoria and enjoyed a brioche from a nearby cart, and admired the fountain and the surrounding buildings in the square.  

My husband pretending to shield his eyes from the nudity at Fontana Pretoria.  The dome of Chiesa de San Giuseppe dei Teatini in the background

The fence kept us out of the fountain on this visit

My mom, husband, and I at Fontana Pretoria in 2024

brioche on the steps of Piazza Pretoria

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

We visited two churches in Piazza Pretoria, Chiesa di Santa Caterina, or Church of Sainta Catherine, and Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini.  We visited the rooftops of both churches and admired the view of the Fontana Pretoria below, as well as the excellent views of Palermo.  The Church of Santa Caterina costs 5 euros if you want to visit the roof, and 3 euros to visit the church, or 7 euro to visit both.  It is open every day from 10 am until 6 p.m.  We didn’t visit the monastery, but for 10 euro this is also included in your visit.  

Chiesa di Santa Caterina official website

The church was built in 1566.  Saint Catherine of Alexandria was a martyr of the 3rd and 4th century who lived in Egypt.  According to tradition, Catherine was a beautiful young Egyptian and the Golden Legend specifies that she was the daughter of King Costa, who left her an orphan when she was very young. She was educated since childhood in the liberal arts. Caterina was asked in marriage by many important men, but she had a dream of Mary with Jesus as a child in her arms, who put a ring on her finger making her his bride, and for this reason she was taken as a model to follow for the nuns.  She was considered the ideal of the virgin consecrated to Christ.

When we entered the church, one of the chandeliers had been lowered and a man was cleaning it, one crystal at a time.

under the dome in Saint Catherine

Memorial Tomb of Saint Catherine

Terrace of the church

view from the rooftop of Church of Saint Catherine

Piazza Pretoria viewed from the roof of Chiesa di Santa Caterina

Fontana Pretoria from above

Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini

Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini was built in the 17th century by Giacomo Besio.  It houses the large blue and yellow dome that is very noticeable from Piazzo Pretoria and from the rooftop of the Church of Saint Catherine.  Under the church is an underground church dedicated to the Madonna della Provvidenza.  Inside this church there is a well, which is called the miraculous spring because tradition states that its waters can cure every ailment.  As we were ascending the stairs we could hear the bell chiming.  I was so sad to have missed being out on the roof when the bell was ringing.  It was another spectacular view of Palermo and of the Fontana Pretoria below.  For more information about the church, visit their website:

Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini

inside the dome

The dome of San Giuseppe dei Teatini

The bell tower of San Giuseppe dei Teatini

view from the roof of San Giuseppe dei Teatini

Fontana Pretoria from above

Piazza Pretoria from the roof of San Giuseppe dei Teatini

In the crypt of the church is remains of a former church, Chiesa Madonna della Provvidenza, dedicated to the Madonna of Providence.  

It says "well from which water gushed forth on 7 January 1668

The miraculous fountain with healing powers

walking the streets of Palermo there are plenty of shopping opportunities

Chipsweet was one of our son Micah's favorite places to eat in Palermo

the lines were long but the food is worth it

choices of a dozen sauces to be poured over your fried selection - in our case, french fries

we chose mayo and ketchup

mini arancine

chicken fingers

walking back to the cruise ship port

Palermo was our favorite stop on our Mediterranean Cruise!  I can't wait to visit again!

Our First Visit to Palermo

The first time I visited Palermo was in 2018 with my husband James, my son Micah, and his wife Jancy.  We got on a sleeper train in Rome and "slept" all the way to Palermo.  I have always wanted to sleep on a train, so this was one of the things I had looked forward to the very most!  We had our own little sleeper car with 2 bunks.  I enjoyed laying on my bunk as the train drove across Italy.  I didn't sleep at all, though.  I just don't sleep, so that part was disappointing, but it was OK.  I got to experience the sleeper train!  

Since we were going to Sicily, which is an island, when we reached the bottom of the "boot" of Italy, they took the train apart and drove it onto a ferry, which carried us across the water to Sicily.  Then they put the train back together and we drove the rest of the way to Palermo.  I was excited to be able to get out of our train car on the ferry and watch the ferry drive across the water.  The views were beautiful!

When we arrived in Palermo, we rode a bus to the car rental place and picked up our rental car.  Our hotel was up on the mountain with a beautiful view of Palermo.  The hotel was very nice and the view from the roof was incredible, but we were disappointed because they had advertised a "hot tub."  Well, when we went to hop in the beautiful "hot tub," it was freezing cold!  It's on the roof and overlooks the beautiful city - just incredible. But when we asked the staff about the cold "hot" tub, they said it's always cold - it is never heated. So why do they call it a hot tub?  Error in translation?

Hotel Bel 3

The driving in Palermo was even more crazy than Rome!  You can definitely fit an Italian car through even the smallest spaces - I've seen it done!  

Palermo has the best food in Italy.  There were so many things that Micah wanted us to try, so every few minutes we were stopping at another place to try something else.  The food was great, but we were so STUFFED by the time we went to bed that night!  

We visited some of Micah's friends in Palermo and went to see the church there also.  The buildings are all very tall and they are all very close together.  

getting on the train in Rome to ride to Palermo overnight

Inside our sleeper car

This is the track inside the ferry that they drove the train cars onto.

parking the train

The train cars on the ferry

Beautiful view of Sicily

On the ferry

Back on land, these are some of the views of Sicily from out our window.

Palermo

The beach!  Micah had been really looking forward to going to the beach, since he hadn't been able to get in the water during his mission!  But unfortunately the water was very cold, and it was rainy and chilly outside of the water too.

just part wherever works! How do some of those cars get out?

At the rental store picking up our car

This is how people move in to apartments.  They're lifting the furniture in through the window.

Beautiful view of Palermo from our hotel

These were some pretty good canolies

This is the way to our hotel.  It was very steep and narrow roads

Our reserved parking spot

Micah is happy to be in Palermo.  I suspect that this was his favorite area, although he still won't tell me.  This was the second city that he served in on his mission.

We really, really needed to do laundry!  We were hoping that there would be a laundry at our hotel, but they said we could send out our clothes to be washed for $30 a shirt.  No thanks!  Luckily we did find this laundromat and not only was there a couple washers available for us, the guy said he'd move the laundry for us so that we could go walk around Palermo instead of having to wait!  That was so nice of him!  And it was so great to have clean clothes!  I was grateful not to have to wash the clothes in the sink and hang them in the bathroom to dry.

Inside the laundromat

may be the time I was most grateful in my life for a washer & dryer!

The Fountain of Shame, or Fontana Pretoria

Fontana Pretoria

Teatro Massimo

Not only is driving crazy, especially in Sicily, but parking was crazy too!  We finally found this little corner to park our rental car in, and then hoped it didn't get towed because I doubt it was really "legal," but a lot of them weren't legal!

They gave us these giant brioches - they are gelato inside of a soft roll.  They tasted amazing, but they melted all over me, and it's not like in the US where you can find bathrooms anywhere and just wash your hands.  I was all covered in gelato and sticky (and I ended up throwing half of it away because I couldn't handle how fast it was melting!) and I finally asked the laundromat guy if I could wash my hands in their bathroom in the back.  This was Micah's favorite thing to eat in Italy.  

The arch in front of the Teatro Politeama Garibaldi, another opera house

This is one of the very few cats that we saw in Italy.  In fact, I can't remember for sure if we ever saw any other cats the whole trip.  There were occasionally people walking dogs.  But there weren't cats.  And there weren't many children, either.  We saw very few children in Italy.

They were having a fancy car show in Palermo while we were there.

This was another place that Micah was excited to take us to.  These fries in a cone have a variety of sauces that they pour over them.

This is another thing Micah really wanted us to try.  They're called Arancine.  They're fried balls full of rice and they come in lots of different flavors.  They are pretty good, but we were SO full by the time we ate them!

Quattro Canti, the most famous intersection in Palermo

Fontana Pretoria

When we visited in 2018 there was water in Fontana Pretoria

There's Micah and Jancy recreating Micah's photo from his mission - embarrassed by the nude statues

walking past Teatro Massimo again

This is where we got the Brioches.  It is very popular.

Teatro Politeama

Beautiful view from the hotel at the "hot" tub.

Some really amazing chicken and french fries that Micah loved in Palermo - it was SO good!  We took it to go, and sat in the parking lot while we ate it.

We also needed to eat more gelato in Palermo

Inside the Palermo train station at night where we met Micah's friend Adjea.

Eating chicken and fries in the car

The one with the light on was Micah's apartment in Palermo.  We could see the current missionaries inside.  When Micah was serving in Palermo I set my treadmill to run past his apartment every day on my iFit program.  So when I saw his apartment for real, it was very familiar and like I had already been there many times before.

Since we had a rental car in 2018, we could see a lot of the places that we hadn't been able to while we were there in 2024 traveling on foot.  Either way is fun, but I don't feel like we missed out on anything really significant by not having a car in 2024.  There is, however, one place I'd like to see the next time I'm in Palermo:

Arco Azzurro or the Kissing Arch or the Blue Arch

On our latest trip to Palermo, I read that Arco Azzurro was closed to the public.  I am determined to see it someday!  I've also read that the bridge might only be accessible by sea, as all of the land around it is owned by private individuals.  I am determined to find a way, however...

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